Camino Francés Guide: practical tips and personal experiences

Looking for a Camino Francés guide? Find practical tips on the route, packing, accommodations, travel seasons, and how to prepare with ease.

What is the Camino Francés and why choose this route?

The Camino Francés is the most well-known pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. It’s a long-distance trail of roughly 800 kilometers, starting in the French village of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, right at the foot of the Pyrenees.

Along the way, you cross northern Spain, walking through four distinct regions: Navarre, La Rioja, Castile and León, and Galicia. The landscapes are incredibly varied – from mountain passes and rolling vineyards to quiet villages, eucalyptus forests and lively cities – until you finally reach the cathedral in Santiago, believed to be the resting place of the Apostle James.

For many, the Camino is more than just a long-distance hike. Some walk it for religious reasons, others for the adventure, the peace, or simply to take a break from everyday life. I personally didn’t have a spiritual goal in mind. I just wanted to walk for a few weeks, spend time outdoors, clear my head, and see who or what I would encounter along the way.

There are several routes leading to Santiago, but the Camino Francés is by far the most popular. And for good reason: the path is well marked, there are plenty of places to eat and sleep, and it’s incredibly easy to meet fellow pilgrims. Especially if you’re traveling solo, that social aspect is a huge plus. The Camino has a unique atmosphere. Even when you’re walking alone, you’re rarely ever truly alone.

This Camino Frances guide is ideal whether you’re an experienced hiker or planning your very first long-distance walk. There’s no need to plan every detail, the path takes care of you.

Camino Francés guide: route, stages & navigation

The Camino Francés runs from southern France to northwestern Spain. What can you expect along the way?

First of all, there are actually two places where you can start: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Somport. In both cases, you have to cross the Pyrenees and eventually converge in Puente la Reina. The vast majority of pilgrims start in Saint-Jean; I did this myself.

From there, the route heads west through four Spanish regions:

• Navarre: nice and hilly, many rivers with beautiful old bridges and the largest city of the Camino Francés: Pamplona.
• La Rioja: you walk right here among the vineyards and olive trees. The capital Logroño is a wonderful place to spend the night.
• Castilla y León: the longest region and the place where you will undoubtedly spend the most time. Large cities like Burgos, León and Astorga alternate the fairly flat landscape. Here you will also find the vast, often hot, Meseta.
• Galicia: the landscape is immediately different, expect green hills, lots of eucalyptus forests and, of course, the iconic terminus: Santiago de Compostela.

The total distance is around 780 kilometers. Famous points along the Camino Francés include Cruz de Ferro, the highest point of the route, where many pilgrims leave a symbolic stone. Another key location is Sarria, where many people begin their walk to complete the final 100 kilometers and still qualify for the Compostela. And, of course, there’s Santiago Cathedral, the official and emotional end of the journey.

Camino Francés stages

The Camino Francés is often divided into roughly 30 to 35 stages, with daily distances between 20 and 30 kilometers. How you structure your Camino depends on your own pace, the availability of accommodations, and how you feel from day to day. There are many possible variations.

Personally, I had both short and long days, depending on the weather, how my body was doing, or simply whether I came across a nice albergue. There’s no official breakdown of the Camino Frances stages, and you’ll soon notice that every guidebook, agency or app has a slightly different take on it.

Still, to give you a general idea, here’s a commonly used stage division, including distance and difficulty:

• Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port – Roncesvalles (24 km – hard)
• Roncesvalles – Zubiri (21 km – average)
• Zubiri – Pamplona (20 km – light)
• Pamplona – Puente la Reina (24 km – average)
• Puente la Reina – Estella (22 km – light)
• Estella – Los Arcos (21 km – light)
• Los Arcos – Logroño (27 km – average)
• Logroño – Nájera (29 km – average)
• Nájera – Santo Domingo de la Calzada (21 km – light)
• Santo Domingo – Belorado (22 km – light)

• Belorado – San Juan de Ortega (24 km – average)
• San Juan – Burgos (25 km – light)
• Burgos – Hornillos del Camino (20 km – light)
• Hornillos del Camino – Castrojeriz (20 km – light)
• Castrojeriz – Frómista (25 km – light)
• Frómista – Carrión de los Condes (19 km – light)
• Carrión – Terradillos de los Templarios (26 km – light)
• Terradillos – Bercianos del Real Camino (23 km – light)
• Bercianos – Mansilla de las Mulas (26 km – light)
• Mansilla – León (19 km – light)
• León – San Martín del Camino (25 km – average)
• San Martín – Astorga (24 km – light)

• Astorga – Foncebadón (26 km – average)
• Foncebadón – Ponferrada (27 km – hard)
• Ponferrada – Villafranca del Bierzo (23 km – light)
• Villafranca – O Cebreiro (28 km – hard)
• O Cebreiro – Triacastela (21 km – average)
• Triacastela – Sarria (18 km – light)
• Sarria – Portomarín (22 km – light)
• Portomarín – Palas de Rei (25 km – light)
• Palas de Rei – Arzúa (29 km – average)
• Arzúa – O Pedrouzo (19 km – light)
• O Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela (20 km – light)

Read more: Camino Francés stages explained: route planning & where to stay

Navigation on the Camino Francés

Getting lost on the Camino Francés is nearly impossible. The route is very well marked with yellow arrows, scallop shells and signs, and you almost never have to think twice about which way to go. If you’re not used to long-distance hiking, it might take a day or two to get the hang of it, but you’ll soon start spotting the arrows without effort.

Just keep in mind: the markings are always directed toward Santiago. If you decide to walk in the opposite direction, they’ll be much harder to follow.

Still, many pilgrims like to bring a guidebook or use an app. I had the Rother walking guide with me, but to be honest, I didn’t love it. The text was quite dry, the practical information was often outdated, and overall it just felt like extra weight. The maps and elevation profiles were nice, though. Next time I would bring A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago by John Brierly. A lot of pilgrims were very happy with that guide.

During my hike itself, I found it very convenient to use apps. I used two of them:

• Wise Pilgrim (paid) – clear layout, useful info per village, and a handy map. I often checked the elevation tab to see where the steep climbs were.
• Buen Camino (free) – great as a supplement, especially for accommodation reviews. You can also “plan” your route and instantly see the total distance and elevation gain.

Both apps work offline and are easy to use alongside the physical markers. But honestly, if you just keep your eyes open and follow the arrows, you’ll be fine.

Best travel time for the Camino Francés

You can walk the Camino Francés year-round, but most pilgrims choose to go in spring or autumn. May and September are particularly popular. While I was on the road, locals told me that during those months, up to 500 pilgrims a day set off from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. That’s a huge number – especially compared to early spring.

The big advantage of May and September is the weather: not too hot, not too cold, and generally less rain than in other months. All accommodations and facilities are usually open too, which makes planning a bit easier.

I walked in early March, when only around 50 pilgrims a day were starting in Saint-Jean. That meant the trail was pleasantly quiet, and I never had trouble finding a bed in the albergues. For me, it was the perfect balance. Peaceful, but still enough hikers around to connect with if I wanted to.

Of course, March comes with a few downsides. Not all hostels and restaurants are open yet, especially in smaller villages. And in higher areas, you might still encounter snow, so that’s something to keep in mind if you’re starting in Saint-Jean. Still, the upside is that you experience the Camino at a different rhythm: no queues for showers, more silence, and no stress about finding a bed. Despite the drawbacks, I personally found March to be an ideal month to walk.

Here’s a quick overview of the other months:

• April and October are quieter than the peak season but come with less predictable weather. If you’re walking in April, keep in mind that Easter week can get quite busy due to local holidays.
• June through August are the hottest and most crowded months. In some parts of Spain, temperatures can rise above 35°C, not ideal for long hiking days.
• November through February are low season. Many albergues are closed, and the weather can be wet, cold and unpredictable. Walking during this time is only recommended if you have experience with winter conditions.

Where to stay on the Camino Francés

Along the Camino Francés, you’ll find places to sleep everywhere – from simple dorms to comfortable guesthouses and hotels. Most pilgrims stay in albergues, which are hostels specifically for pilgrims. These come in different types:

• Municipal or church-run albergues are the cheapest, usually between €8 and €12, or on a donation basis (donativo). You often sleep in large dorms with bunk beds, and facilities are basic but functional.
• Private albergues are a bit more expensive, typically between €15 and €20, and often more comfortable. Dorms have fewer beds, the showers are better, and many offer a communal meal.
• There are also plenty of guesthouses and hotels, perfect if you want a private room or are taking a rest day. Prices usually range from €40 to €75 or more, depending on the season and location.

In the cheaper albergues, you’ll usually get a bed with a paper sheet and a pillowcase. So it’s essential to bring a sleeping bag or sheet liner. Some places provide a blanket, but not all. And to be honest, they aren’t washed very often. I personally avoided using them as much as possible.

Booking isn’t always possible, especially at municipal albergues. During high season, it’s smart to reserve in advance if you want to stay in a popular village or prefer a certain type of accommodation. When I walked in March, booking was totally unnecessary. There was space everywhere, and I could just show up without stress. The few places I did book were often through Booking.com.

One useful tip, especially during busy months, is to arrive early, ideally around early afternoon. That way, you’ll have the best chance of getting a bed, and plenty of time to shower, relax, and explore the town.

What to bring on the Camino (packing list)

One of the most frequently asked questions before starting the Camino: what should you pack in your backpack? The short answer: as little as possible. The less you carry, the more enjoyable the walk.

Still, there are a few essentials you definitely shouldn’t leave behind. Think: well-fitting hiking shoes, a sleeping bag or sheet liner (for hostels), comfortable hiking clothes, a rain jacket or poncho, and basic supplies for blisters and minor aches and pains.

I walked the Camino Francés with a bulky 58-liter backpack, which was honestly too big. I didn’t feel like buying a new one, and it was very lightweight, but still: overkill. I’d say a 40-liter pack is ideal for the Camino Francés, especially in cooler months. When I hiked the Camino del Norte in summer, a 30-liter backpack was more than enough.

You really don’t need to spend weeks researching or buying fancy gear. Start with what you already have, add what you’re missing, and keep it simple. Along the way, you’ll figure out what works for you. As a general rule, try to keep your pack at 10–20% of your body weight. Under 10 kilos is a good target for most walkers.

Luggage transportation on the Camino Francés

Want to keep things even lighter? You can have your luggage transported between accommodations, allowing you to walk with just a small daypack. If you choose this option, you’ll need to plan ahead and book your accommodation in advance, as luggage is typically not delivered to municipal albergues.

You can arrange luggage transport with the Spanish postal service or a private companies such as Jacotrans, among others.It’s a great solution if you’re recovering from an injury, want more comfort, or simply don’t feel like carrying everything.

Eating & drinking on the Camino

You don’t have to worry about running out of food along the way. In almost every village or town on the Camino Francés, you’ll find a café, bar or restaurant. Most places open early for coffee and a simple desayuno (breakfast), and are open again later in the day for lunch and dinner.

Almost everywhere, you can choose the pilgrim’s menu: a set three-course meal including bread, wine or water, usually for around €12 to €15. Expect soup or salad to start, a simple main dish, and fruit or flan for dessert. It’s basic, but nourishing, with big portions and exactly what you need after a day of walking. It’s also usually a social experience, as you’re often seated at a large table with fellow pilgrims.

Vegetarian options can be a bit tricky at times. I don’t eat meat myself and have eaten more tortillas than I can count (egg with potatoes and onion, sometimes with extra veggies), luckily, I love them. But if you’re looking for varied vegetarian or vegan food, you might have to get creative, especially in smaller villages. Bigger cities generally offer more options.

Also, keep an eye on Spanish dining times: kitchens often don’t open until late. That said, in towns with lots of pilgrims, you can usually eat as early as 7:00 p.m. Just ask in advance, so you don’t end up waiting until 8:30 p.m. with an empty stomach.

Occasionally, you’ll find a hostel with a kitchen for pilgrims, but to be honest, that’s the exception rather than the rule. And even if there is a kitchen, it doesn’t necessarily mean there are pots, pans or plates. Often, there’s just a kettle or a microwave. So cooking your own meal is only realistic if you know the kitchen is usable, or if you’re okay being creative with instant noodles and a spork.

How to get to the starting point (and back home)

Your Camino often starts before you even take your first step – you’ll need to get to the starting point first. And after arriving in Santiago, of course, you’ll want to make your way back home. Below you’ll find the most common and convenient travel options.

Getting to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Many pilgrims start their Camino Francés in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a small French village at the foot of the Pyrenees. It’s not directly connected to any major airport, so getting there requires at least one transfer.

One of the most popular routes is to travel via Paris. From there, you can take a high-speed train (TGV) to Bayonne, and then a regional train to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Note that the regional train only runs a few times per day, so check the schedule in advance.

If you’re planning to travel by train, I recommend booking your tickets through Rail Europe. This is a user-friendly platform for international travelers, with easy access to European train routes, including TGV and SNCF regional trains.

Another common option is to fly into Biarritz, which is the closest airport to Saint-Jean. From Biarritz, you can take a local bus to Bayonne, and then continue by train. Flights to Biarritz are available from several European hubs, especially during the spring and summer months. For flights, I personally like using WayAway, a flight comparison tool that also offers cashback on bookings.

If you’re starting your Camino in Somport (the other official starting point of the Camino Aragonés), the best route is via Zaragoza, then onward by bus or train to Jaca or Canfranc. This route is less commonly used and logistically more complicated.

Getting Home from Santiago de Compostela

Santiago de Compostela has its own international airport (SCQ), with regular flights to cities like Madrid, Barcelona, and other major hubs. From there, you can connect to your onward destination. There are no direct long-haul flights from Santiago, so most travelers will need a layover.

Another good option is to fly from A Coruña (about 30 minutes from Santiago by train or bus). Depending on your destination, this airport may offer better schedules or prices.

A popular alternative is to take a bus to Porto (in Portugal), which takes around 4 hours. Porto has a well-connected international airport with many direct flights to major cities across Europe and beyond.

How do you prepare?

Start looking up the Camino Francés online and you’ll quickly get overwhelmed with packing lists, training schedules, Facebook groups and hiking strategies. But honestly? You don’t need to figure it all out in detail. I’m the type of person who just starts walking and figures it out along the way.

That said, a little preparation does help. Here are a few things that make the journey easier:

Make sure you have comfortable hiking shoes. Go at least a size to a size and a half larger than your regular shoes. You don’t need heavy mountain boots for the Camino, a light trail runner is totally fine. I personally wore Hoka Speedgoats, combined with merino wool hiking socks, and I didn’t get a single blister during my walk.

Try hiking a few times with a fully packed backpack to get used to the weight and to learn how to adjust it properly. If you buy a backpack from a reputable outdoor shop, staff can usually show you how to fit it. Otherwise, you’ll find plenty of tutorials online.

It also helps to walk a few longer distances before you leave – say, 15 to 20 kilometers. I used to do weekend hikes through different parts of the Netherlands before heading to France. It was good practice and a nice way to explore my own country.

But a strict multi-week training plan? Totally unnecessary. On the Camino, your body adapts naturally. The first week is usually the hardest. After that, you fall into a rhythm. I started out struggling with 20 to 25 kilometers, but by the final week, I was cruising through 30-kilometer days with ease.

The same goes for planning. You don’t need to book all your accommodations in advance or know every step of the route. The Camino points the way. Especially in the off-season, there’s more than enough space for spontaneous decisions.

And maybe most important of all: don’t have too many expectations. You don’t need to have a spiritual epiphany or enjoy every single day. Some days will be tough. Some will be boring. And some will be magical. That’s all part of the journey – and exactly how it’s meant to be.ometimes it’s boring. And sometimes it’s magical. And that’s exactly how it should be.

Frequently Asked Questions

By now, you probably know quite a bit about the Camino Francés. But to wrap things up, here are a few final questions I often see from fellow (future) pilgrims, and my honest answers based on personal experience.

Still have a question after reading this Camino Francés guide? Feel free to send me an email or leave a comment below. I’d love to help you prepare for your own adventure.

Camino de Santiago – Camino Francés: Guide With Map Book (Cicerone Guides)