Hiking in Sierra de Gredos: an undiscovered corner of Spain

Explore the unspoiled Sierra de Gredos: rugged peaks, glacial valleys and wild ibex. A paradise for hikers seeking nature and tranquillity in Spain.

Sierra de Gredos: rugged mountains and unspoiled nature

In September I spent a few days in the Sierra de Gredos, invited by Castilla y León. Just over a two-hour drive from Madrid you step into a completely different world: rugged mountains, wide valleys and herds of ibex that often appear surprisingly close. During my hikes I ran into them everywhere: sometimes they ran off, but often they just stood there curiously watching. On one hike I saw literally hundreds. Cows also frequently block the trails, which makes for some comical moments.

The Sierra de Gredos (Parque Regional de la Sierra de Gredos) is one of the largest protected natural areas in central Spain, located roughly between Salamanca and Toledo. The park covers more than 86,000 hectares and includes several high peaks, the highest being Pico Almanzor at 2,592 meters. The valleys were carved by glaciers long ago, leaving behind dramatic rock formations. Although the area feels wild and untouched, it is surprisingly accessible.

Despite its impressive landscapes, the Sierra de Gredos is still relatively unknown to international travelers. Most visitors are Spaniards who come here for summer hikes or snowshoeing in winter. Because it is so quiet, the atmosphere is authentic and you often have the trails almost to yourself.

What struck me most was the variety of landscapes. On the edges of the park you walk through forests of chestnut and oak, while higher up you find steep rocky slopes and green alpine meadows. It feels like stepping into a new setting again and again, with cows as a constant companion.

Birdwatchers will also enjoy this region: thanks to its location, many different species can be found here, including some rare ones. My personal highlight, however, were the countless ibex I encountered along the way. I had not expected to see so many and it was special to observe them up close.

In this article I take you on a virtual tour of the Sierra de Gredos. I share practical tips, a good base to stay, and the most beautiful hikes to do in this area.

Sierra de Gredos: where to stay

If you plan to visit the Sierra de Gredos, it is useful to have a good base. You will find great places to stay both on the north side and the south side of the mountains. From either side you can enter the park to enjoy hikes and scenery.

Hoyos del Espino

I stayed in Hoyos del Espino on the north side of the mountains, at 1,484 meters altitude. It is a small village, but perfectly located for heading into the mountains. From my room at Hotel El Milano Real I had a fantastic view of the surroundings. You can already do several hikes from here, but if you want to explore deeper into the mountains, having a car is essential.

• Book your stay at Hotel El Milano Real

Parador de Gredos

One of the most remarkable places to stay on the north side is the Parador de Gredos. This was Spain’s very first Parador, housed in the former royal hunting lodge. In 1978, the first draft of the Spanish Constitution was drawn up here. In the current Salón de los Ponentes (formerly Salón del Silencio) you can still see photos of this historic event.

What also makes the Parador special is its location in the mountains and the historic atmosphere throughout the building. You can stay overnight, but you can also just stop by for a coffee and a look around.

• Book your stay in Parador de Gredos

South side: Candaleda & Arenas de San Pedro

I did not visit the southern side of the Sierra de Gredos myself, but there are villages here that are often mentioned as bases. Since they are at a lower altitude, the climate is much milder. The landscape has more Mediterranean traits, with olive and orange trees all around.

Candeleda lies lower in the valley and is known for its green surroundings. Arenas de San Pedro is larger and therefore has more amenities, such as restaurants and shops.

• Hotel tip Candeleda: Hotel Nabia – Luxury boutique hotel in the mountains with spectacular valley views.
• Hotel tip Arenas de San Pedro: Hotel Rural El Marquesito Antigua Casa Carmela – Boutique style with pool, peaceful setting.

Hiking in Sierra de Gredos

What drew me to the Sierra de Gredos is that it truly is a hiker’s paradise. In and around the mountains you will find trails of all kinds: from an easy walk through the hills to a demanding climb up to a summit. During my visit I did two hikes that were very different, but both absolutely worth it.

Hike from Hoyos del Espino

When I arrived in Hoyos del Espino, there were still about three hours left before sunset. My legs were itching to get moving. I texted my guide and he immediately sent me a route I could start right from my hotel. Perfect!

It is a circular hike of about ten kilometers with roughly 200 meters of elevation gain. There are no signs along the way, but with GPS the route is easy to follow, even if you are not used to hiking in the mountains.

The trail runs mostly along quiet dirt roads and gently rolls up and down. From time to time I hear the tinkling of cowbells in the distance. I pass open stretches with views, shady forest paths, and finally a rocky section with a small waterfall. This hike is the perfect warm-up before tackling the more demanding trails inside the national park.

Download the GPS of the hike from Hoyos del Espino here.

To the summit of Pico Morezón (2389 meters)

The second hike was more challenging: a climb to Pico Morezón. Together with my guide Juan, I hiked a 14.5-kilometer route with 660 meters of elevation gain. He picked me up in Hoyos del Espino and we drove about 15 minutes to the Plataforma de Gredos parking lot. Juan jokingly calls the first part of the trail “The Highway.” In summer it can apparently get very crowded here on Sundays, but today there was no one. Soon we turned left onto a narrower path.

I could hardly see the trail myself, but Juan knew it well. Now and then piles of stones marked the way. Juan explained that sometimes posts with signs are placed, but they never last long as the cows knock them over. The higher we climbed, the more ibex we saw, often standing still and watching us. Although the trail goes steadily uphill, it is easy enough to follow if you have some mountain hiking experience. From Puerto de Candeleda we had a wide view of the southern side of the range.

Near the ruins of the King’s former mountain hut is a spring (Fuente del Refugio del Rey) where you can refill your water bottle. From there the trail gets steeper and sometimes requires a short scramble over rocks, but never for long. Even without much scrambling experience I found it quite manageable.

At the summit a spectacular panorama awaited us. You can see the entire mountain range, with valleys stretching north and south. Below lies the glacial lake Laguna Grande de Gredos, next to a mountain hut where you can spend the night.

After a lunch break we began the descent back to the parking lot. Along the way we spotted several more ibex. Eventually we rejoined “The Highway,” where there is a drinking fountain – convenient, since you only need to carry a small amount of water with you. After about six hours of hiking (including breaks) we were back at the car. For me this hike was the perfect way to experience the Sierra de Gredos in all its glory.

Other hikes in Gredos

In addition to these hikes, there are many more beautiful trails to explore. The most famous one starts from the Plataforma de Gredos parking lot and leads through the Mirador Circo de Gredos viewpoint to the glacial lake Laguna Grande. This trail is marked, but it is still best to bring a GPS track, as there are many side paths that can cause confusion.

A long-distance trail also passes through the area: the GR10 (about 110 kilometers in total). You can easily hike individual sections of it and will regularly see the red and white waymarks. I even spotted them right next to my hotel in Hoyos del Espino.

• If you want to discover more routes, check out Wikiloc, where you can easily download GPS tracks
• From the village of Navarredonda de Gredos (near Hoyos del Espino) several marked routes start, ranging from 3 to 9.5 kilometers. You can also find GPS tracks for these online.

Practical tips for Sierra de Gredos

After my own experience in the mountains, I think it’s useful to share some practical information as well. Although the Sierra de Gredos is quite easy to reach, there are a few things to keep in mind before you go.

Entrance

As we drove into the Sierra de Gredos, I was surprised to see a small kiosk. The park has an official entrance with a well-known hiking quote by John Muir next to it. We could drive straight through, but my guide told me that on weekends between mid-June and mid-September there is a fee of €3 per car.

Best time to visit

The Sierra de Gredos can be visited year-round, but conditions vary greatly depending on the season.

• Summer (July and August): high season, with all services available, such as bus connections. It can get crowded, especially on weekends.
• Spring and autumn (June and September): often excellent temperatures for hiking, though you may still encounter snow in June and occasionally in September.
• Winter: usually covered in snow, making it ideal for snowshoeing.

Accessibility

The park is about a 2.5-hour drive from Madrid. Renting a car is the most practical way to get there, especially outside the high season. In summer, buses also run to Hoyos del Espino, but schedules are limited. Having your own car also gives you the freedom to combine different villages and trailheads. Parking is generally free.

Preparation and safety

Although there are also easy routes, this is still a mountain area. Always wear hiking boots with good grip and carry enough water and snacks. The weather can change quickly, especially at higher elevations, so dressing in layers is essential. Since trail markings are often missing or unclear, it’s wise to download a GPS track in advance and bring a power bank. Also keep in mind that cell phone coverage is not guaranteed everywhere.