Camino Portugués #1: Starting on my own in Lisbon | Travel journal

My first week on the Camino Portugues starts in Lisbon. I follow the Tagus River, face the heat and discover what it is like to walk this route solo.

I loved walking the Camino Frances in March so much that I decided almost immediately to walk another Camino this year. This time I choose the Camino Portugues with Lisbon as my starting point. I keep a daily journal during the walk and this is the story of my first week on the trail.

Travel day: from the Netherlands to Lisbon

My trip starts well. I take the train from my small village in the north of the Netherlands to Groningen, but the first train is delayed which means I miss my connection to Schiphol Airport. Luckily I always leave early, so with the next train and an extra change in Zwolle I still arrive at the airport with plenty of time. I even head up to the panorama terrace to have lunch and watch planes for a bit. Even though I fly often, I still find it fascinating that something so heavy lifts into the air.

The line at security is short and for the first time in ages I am not pulled aside for an extra check. That happens to me all the time. Last time my tripod and an apple caused trouble, but I left those at home today. My Transavia flight leaves from one of the farthest gates at Schiphol, D86, but I do not mind. At least I get my steps in.

The plane takes off about fifteen minutes late but makes up for it during the flight. It feels like time moves slowly. I finish an entire book and watch a tv show. During the descent I am glued to the window like always. I love flying into Portugal. I always look for the familiar landmarks. You see the Ponte de 25 Abril, which resembles the Golden Gate Bridge, the city center and Castelo de Sao Jorge on the hill. Portugal always feels like coming home.

For tonight I booked a private room, the cheapest one I could find with good reviews. It is in my favorite neighborhood to stay in Lisbon, which I think is Santa Cruz, so I know my way around. I eat a delicious pad thai at Luka, the same place I visited last year with my best friend Jess. A great way to start a new Camino.

• Accommodation: Appartamento Bernardim Ribeiro

Camino Portugués day 1: Flamingo Party!

I sleep a bit restlessly. As someone who lives in a small village, I always need time to get used to city noise. I wake up early and scroll through social media for a while. One Facebook post jumps out. Someone who started from Lisbon two days before me writes a long complaint about industrial areas and endless asphalt.

It makes me pause for a moment. Over the past weeks I have heard from several people that there is a reason why the section between Lisbon and Porto is not very popular. It is not supposed to be the most scenic part of the Camino Portugues, with plenty of industry along the way. The funny thing is that none of the people who warned me had actually walked it. And since I would rather walk a full Camino than half of one, I decided from the start to begin in Lisbon. This way I get to see more of Portugal as well. I keep in mind that the next few days may not always be beautiful, but I am here now. Time to get going.

Around 8.30 I leave my accommodation and walk the small three kilometers to the cathedral. A little sightseeing in Lisbon right away. I pass through streets and corners I have never seen before. After a very expensive coffee and a pastel de nata, I step into the Sé de Lisboa to get my credential. The first stamp is in and I hear my first Bom Caminho. I can begin.

I have no plan for today. My only goal is to listen to my body. There are almost no hostels for the first fifty kilometers and I walk past several train stations, so in the worst case I can take a train back to Lisbon. Plenty of places to stay there.

From Alfama I walk north through neighborhoods full of street art. Parque das Nacoes feels familiar, as I have been there many times. I pick up lunch at the supermarket and eat it near the Torre Vasco da Gama, the tallest building in Portugal, with a view of the Tagus.

The river is my guide today. I follow it for kilometers. At Parque Papa Francisco my favorite part of the day begins. A wooden boardwalk of about six kilometers. To my surprise there are hundreds of flamingos in the water. Such an amazing sight.

By now the temperature is rising and I feel my legs getting heavier. I do not come close to reaching the first hostel today, so I book a room in Lisbon and take the train back from Povoa. Still, I walk a solid twenty one kilometers on the Camino plus the three extra kilometers to the starting point. It is by no means an ugly or boring day. A great start.

I meet only two other pilgrims today. Such a contrast compared to other Camino routes.

• From – to: Lisbon – Povoa
• Number of kilometers today: 21
• Number of kilometers total: 21
• Accommodation: Green Heart Hostel (private room, booked a few hours in advance through Booking)

Camino Portugués day 2: Many kilometers in the void

A little before eight in the morning I am back on the Camino in Povoa. The sun has just come up and the Tagus has this beautiful orange glow. The day could not start any better.

I keep following the river. It is mostly wooden decking paths. For miles I have a military airfield on my left and the Tagus on my right, with reed beds and lots of birds. It is lovely walking here. In Alverca I check the map and realize I have been walking the wrong way for five kilometers. I should have walked on the other side of the airfield. Oops! I honestly do not mind, because my route is much prettier and I am back on the Camino within five minutes.

After a coffee stop in the Pingo Doce I have to walk three kilometers along a busy highway. That is something else. One truck after another races right past me. I am very relieved when I finally reach Alhandra. From here I walk along a beautiful riverside path again. There are benches along the way, cool murals on the walls and even water taps. Perfect.

In Vila Franca de Xira I get a salad and some empanadas for lunch and after that the day becomes all about walking as much kilometers as I can. Long stretches of asphalt, no shade and the temperature climbs to thirty degrees. Completely sweaty I arrive at the station in Vila Nova da Rainha. There is no hostel here, so I take the train to Azambuja. The ride takes only six minutes.

I have not seen a single pilgrim all day, but the hostel in Azambuja is full of activity. A handful of pilgrims are walking to Santiago, but most are on their way to Fatima. It is fun to talk to people again after such a quiet day. I do not feel completely fit though, so I keep dinner simple with a soup and go to bed early. Curious what tomorrow will bring.

• From – to: Povoa – Vila Nova da Rainha
• Number of kilometers today: 29
• Number of kilometers total: 50
• Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos de Azambuja (no reservation, just walked in).

Camino Portugués day 3: Listening to your body

As I walk to the train in the morning to head back to Vila Nova da Rainha, I feel a sharp pain in my left Achilles tendon. Oh no. I know I pushed my body too hard yesterday with the fast pace, the endless asphalt and not drinking enough water, so today has to be different. This warning is here for a reason.

After a six minute train ride I am back on the trail and walk along the train tracks for another hour and a half. I take it slow, enjoy the cool morning air and the sunrise. The pain disappears quickly, which is a relief. I keep an eye on it, slow down a little and make sure I drink regularly. It will be fine.

Back in Azambuja I stop at a cafe for a coffee and a pastel de nata. After that a long stretch follows, about twelve kilometers through open fields. Empty straight roads, a bright blue sky, big clouds of dust when trucks pass and lots of small airplanes overhead. I am walking next to an airfield. It is Saturday which means many cyclists as well. I hear Bom Caminho all the time, which is really sweet.

In Valada I reach the Tagus again. I stop at a small cafe by the river for a sandwich and enjoy a quiet moment of rest. From there I walk along the dike toward my endpoint for the day. Even though it is thirty degrees again, I feel much better than yesterday. Taking breaks and drinking enough water makes such a big difference.

A little before three I arrive at Quinta da Burra, a large farmhouse. I stay in a spacious room with just one other pilgrim, Jane from Malaysia. I read on the porch, enjoy a glass of wine and have good conversations with Jane and Helga, the owner. I am in bed before eight. I need a good night of sleep and this is the perfect place for it.

• From – to: Vila Nova da Rainha – Porto de Muge
• Number of kilometers today: 25
• Number of kilometers total: 75
• Overnight: Quinta da Burra (private inn, booked the night before via WhatsApp)

Camino Portugués day 4: Swinging through the vineyards

I sleep like a log and feel ready for a new day. Breakfast is delicious and very generous, which is perfect because the first sixteen kilometers have no facilities at all. I start around sunrise again and the first hours are wonderfully cool, partly because the dike blocks the sun for a while.

At some point I see a large structure on the dike. It cannot be what I think it is. But yes, it is a huge swing placed there for pilgrims. Of course I have to try it. While I swing, I look out over the landscape. It feels so special to be here all alone, able to do something this simple and joyful. I have a big smile on my face.

I follow the dirt road for miles. First between fields full of peppers and the dike, then I turn off and walk through endless vineyards.

Toward the end of the morning I have to climb up to Santarem. It is a tough climb and my Achilles tendon protests loudly. I almost limp into the supermarket. This does not feel right. I really need to pay close attention to it. With a bag full of food I wander through town for a bit. There are many beautiful old buildings, most of them in rough condition. A true diamond in the rough.

After the descent I drop onto a bench in the shade. I take a long lunch break so I can rest my foot. I put it up on my bag and after half an hour it feels much better.

The remaining kilometers to Vale de Figueira take me through more vineyards. It is beautiful but also tough because of the heat. Near the end I am surprised when a French pilgrim, Gaspard, catches up with me. He says he has not seen anyone in days. We end up staying in the same guesthouse along with another French pilgrim and have a great pizza together at the local restaurant.

For me this is a perfect day on the Camino. I love walking alone, but it is nice to have some company in the evening.

• From – to: Porto de Muge – Vale de Figuiera
• Number of kilometers today: 28
• Number of kilometers total: 103
• Accommodation: Casa das Laranjeiras (private room, booked the same morning through Booking)

Camino Portugués day 5: A relaxing walking day

My Achilles tendon feels a little stiff when I step outside, but it does not hurt. The stiffness disappears quickly and I have no further problems with it. Yes! Since there are not that many kilometers on the plan today, I start a little later than usual and take it slow. I walk through a eucalyptus forest out of the village and then follow dirt roads between the farmlands, just like yesterday. I enjoy it so much. The morning temperature is perfect and I love the peace and wide open landscape.

After about ten kilometers I am overtaken by Pedro from Spain. We chat for a moment, but he walks so fast that I cannot keep up with him. In Azinhaga I stop at a café for a coffee and a pastel de nata. A group of Portuguese men on the terrace really want me to sit with them, even though we cannot understand each other at all. It is quite hilarious. They offer me everything from homemade cookies to wine. I skip the wine since I still have to walk some more (and it’s not even noon).

Gaspard has also arrived and together we walk to the endpoint for today. Officially the Camino follows a busy highway for seven kilometers, but it is terrifying. Big trucks and buses race by at high speed and there is barely any shoulder. I saw in my guide that there is an alternative route on a small road, so we turn off as soon as we can. It is one kilometer longer but much safer and quieter. There is plenty to see as well. Around us they are harvesting all kinds of crops. I see peppers, squash, corn and more. You could easily put together a good meal here.

In Golegã we eat lunch on a terrace and then knock on the door of a very fancy house that appears to be a hostel. The woman who opens the door is quite formal, but she quickly lets us in through the gate on the side of the house. The hostel is in a small building behind the house with three bunk beds. There is a small kitchen and an outdoor sink where you can do a hand wash. Pedro, Gaspard and I are the only guests.

I wander through town for a bit. It is very pretty and known for its horses. At the supermarket I get some bacalao, cheese and a bottle of wine and later I chat with Pedro for a while. Today was a really good day.

• From – to: Vale de Figuiera – Golegã
• Number of kilometers today: 21
• Number of kilometers total: 124
• Accommodation: Casa da Tia Guida (no reservation, just knocked on the door)

Camino Portugués Day 6: The longest day so far, but not alone!

To my great surprise the owner of the hostel has prepared breakfast. Such a nice start. In good spirits I set off around a quarter to eight and I have just left Golegã when the sun rises. It is another beautiful morning. Birds fly overhead in large groups and I walk between fruit trees.

At some point I see a large black animal crossing the road. Clearly much bigger than a dog. My first thought is a bear. There are no bears here, of course. It turns out to be a wild boar. I watch him move around between the trees. He sees me too and keeps his distance, and I do the same. A little later he crosses the road again behind me. What a moment.

After a tiny village I pass through Quinta da Cardiga, a run down estate that feels like a ghost town. It must have been incredibly beautiful in the past. Through the trees I can see the Tagus shimmering in the morning light. A few people are working on renovations and I am very curious what it will look like in a few years.

After nine kilometers there is a café and I take a break. Every visitor greets me warmly. The Portuguese really are unbelievably friendly. After a long stretch with lots of buildings and olive trees, without shade and in the heat again, one of the most challenging parts of this Camino so far begins. A very hilly path through the forest. That is where I meet Margrethe from Germany. I spoke to her briefly on the first day and we walk the rest of the day together. It is really fun.

Asseiceira is a good place to pause longer. I put my foot up with a cold can underneath it, because my Achilles tendon is acting up again. I can feel that it is improving compared to the earlier days, but it still makes me a bit nervous.

The last ten kilometers to Tomar are a real slog. It is thirty degrees, almost all asphalt, constantly up and down and no shade at all. We are both soaked in sweat.

We are so relieved when we finally enter Tomar, which is a beautiful town and by far the most touristy place since Lisbon. The only hostel is full, so I book a hotel room. It is very clean and bright and I have a view of the castle on the hill. I am exhausted, so I do nothing for the rest of the afternoon except rest with my legs up. Tomorrow I will have time for some sightseeing.

• From – to: Golegã – Tomar
• Number of kilometers today: 31
• Number of kilometers total: 155
• Accommodation: Thomar Story – Guest House (booked in the morning)

The first week on the Camino in Portugal has flown by, although it certainly had its challenges. The heat makes the walking tough and my Achilles tendon does not make things easier. But every day I see something beautiful and I enjoy this journey so much.

Next travel journal: Camino Portugués #2: from Tomar to Coimbra