Valley of Vinales: 8 tips for the green heart of Cuba

Discover the best tips for the Valley of Vinales in Cuba. Practical information on tobacco plantations, the extraordinary mogotes and visiting caves.

Welcome to the Valley of Vinales: a green oasis

Some places stay with you longer than others. The Valley of Vinales is one of those places. It was my second stop in Cuba after Havana, and I felt right at home. While Havana is beautiful and colorful, it is also crowded and chaotic. The Valley of Vinales is completely different; everything moves slower here, and there is a serene calm. It is a place where the rhythm is set by the sunrise, the lowing of oxen, and the time it takes to roll a cigar. In this article, I share my passion for this region, my personal experiences with a Cuban family and, of course, all the practical tips you need to explore this special valley on your own.

What is the Valley of Vinales and what makes it special?

The Valley of Vinales (Valle de Viñales) is located in the province of Pinar del Río, at the westernmost tip of Cuba. It is a landscape you won’t see anywhere else in the world. The most distinctive feature of the valley are the mogotes: steep, rounded limestone hills that define the landscape like giant bumps.

Since 1999, the valley has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. This is not only because of the unique appearance of the mountains, but mainly because of the way people live and work here. In fact, farming here is still done in a way that has remained unchanged for centuries. No roaring tractors or modern machinery, but farmers working their land with wooden plows and oxen. The deep red color of the earth is a beautiful contrast to the bright green of the tobacco plants. This is the birthplace of the famous Cuban cigar; according to connoisseurs, the best tobacco in the world comes from this valley.

What makes Vinales really special to me is the atmosphere. The village itself consists of brightly colored houses with porches full of rocking chairs. Everyone greets you with a smile.

My experience: staying with my ‘new family’

When I think back on my time in Vinales, I don’t immediately think of the views (as beautiful as they were), but of Estrella and Celestino. During my trip through Cuba, I frequently stayed in casas particulares (in people’s homes) and the one in Vinales was by far my favorite.

We arrived at a bright pink house, got a bright pink room, and were immediately adopted by “mama” Estrella. Celestino, a man of few words but with a generous smile, proudly showed me the giant avocados from his own garden. They were seriously bigger than my head!

Staying in a casa in Vinales means waking up in the morning to the crowing of the rooster and then sitting down for a breakfast of fresh fruit and eggs from the chickens that roam the garden. It is this hospitality that adds an extra dimension to a visit to the Valley of Vinales. You are not a tourist; you are part of the family for a while.

The best things to do in the Valley of Vinales

While it’s obviously great to spend the whole day in a rocking chair, I would definitely recommend exploring the Valley of Vinales. After all, there is plenty to do. Here are my favorite activities and sights:

Visit a tobacco plantation

This is the absolute number one. You cannot visit Vinales without seeing a tobacco barn from the inside. You will find them on the edges of the village, surrounded by fields full of tobacco plants.

Although we don’t smoke ourselves, we still wanted to take a look. The local farmer explained how the process works, with tobacco leaves hanging all around you. It is very impressive to see how the cigars are rolled by hand.

Cycling through the valley

Being Dutch, I like to get around by bike, and this is very easy in Vinales since the landscape is quite flat. We rented bikes to explore the area. You cycle through the fields, pass grazing bulls, and see farmers at work. It gives a tremendous sense of freedom to wander through this landscape on your own. The roads are not great everywhere (lots of loose sand and occasional potholes), but it is absolutely worth the effort.

Tip! Don’t feel like going out on your own? You can ook an organized bike tour here with an English-speaking guide.

Exploring the valley on horseback

Next to the bicycle, the horse is the most common means of transportation in the Valley of Vinales. Although we chose the bike ourselves, you see groups of travelers everywhere exploring the narrow paths between the mogotes with a guide. The great advantage of a horseback ride is that you reach places that are difficult to access by bicycle or on foot, especially if the red paths have turned into a mud puddle after a rainstorm.

During such a tour, you often not only visit the tobacco fields, but also ride through the “Valle del Silencio” and stop at local coffee and honey farms. It fits perfectly with the authentic, slow-paced atmosphere of the region.

Does this sound like you? You can book a horseback ride through the valley in advance online. This way, you can be sure that a guide will be waiting for you and you won’t have to negotiate the price on the spot.

The view at Hotel Los Jazmines

For the classic “postcard view,” you have to go to the terrace of Hotel Horizontes Los Jazmines. The hotel is located a little higher up on a hill, giving you the entire Valley of Vinales at your feet. It has a huge pool and offers perhaps the most beautiful view in the area. Can you imagine seeing those green hills as you lie bobbing in the fresh water?

Good to know: You don’t have to stay here to enjoy the view. You can just walk there or take a cab for a drink on the terrace. We were also allowed to use the pool at the time for a small fee. Ideal!

Explore the caves: Cueva del Indio and Santo Tomás

The limestone mountains are full of caves. The Cueva del Indio is the most accessible, and I visited it during my bike ride in Vinales. You first walk through the illuminated passageways and then board a motorboat for a trip down an underground river that exits the cave. It’s touristy, but a lot of fun.

Want more adventure? Then head to the Gran Caverna de Santo Tomás. This is one of the largest cave systems in Latin America. Here, you will go with a guide and a headlamp for a real expedition. There are no paved paths or lights, just pure nature.

Mural de la Prehistoria

Okay, let’s be honest: the Mural de la Prehistoria is a bit kitsch. It is a giant painting on a rock wall, commissioned by Fidel Castro in the 1960s. It depicts the evolution of humans and animals. While the painting itself may not be to everyone’s taste, the location is beautiful and the scale on which it was made (120 meters wide!) is quite impressive.

The botanical garden of Vinales

In the village itself, you will find the Jardín Botánico de Viñales, which is a hidden gem as far as I’m concerned. It is a private garden filled with exotic plants, fruit trees, and orchids. Tours are often given by family members of the original founders. It is a lovely, shady place to escape the Cuban sun for a while.

A walk through the village

Although the nature in the valley is the main attraction, the village of Vinales itself is also very charming. It consists of low-rise buildings with brightly colored houses. We spent a lot of time in our casa, but a walk down the main street is definitely recommended. You will find cozy restaurants, small shops, and, of course, the necessary Cuban propaganda. For example, we came across a large mural of Che Guevara, an iconic image you see in many places in Cuba.

The best place to sit down and people-watch is Parque José Martí. Here, you will find not only nice benches to sit on but also the cultural center and the characteristic white church.

How to get to the Valley of Vinales?

Vinales is located about 180 kilometers (110 miles) from Havana. Most travelers visit the valley as a second stop during their tour of Cuba.

• By Viazul bus: This is the most common method for tourists and how I traveled from Havana to Vinales. The buses are comfortable and have air conditioning (sometimes it gets a little too cold, so bring a cardigan!). The ride from Havana takes about 3.5 to 4 hours. Be sure to reserve tickets at least a few days in advance through the Viazul website. You can also buy them at the bus station (also a few days in advance).
• Colectivo (shared cab): You share a car with other travelers (nice and social). This could be a vintage car, but they often fall apart, so I’m not sure if you want to spend three hours in one. It is often a little faster than the bus, picking you up at your accommodation in Havana and dropping you off right in front of your casa in Vinales.
• Rental car: If you drive yourself, the road to Vinales is fine. Do watch out for loose cattle and potholes, especially once you leave the highway and enter the provincial roads.

Practical tips for your visit

There are a few things you need to know before visiting the Valley of Vinales.

• Best Time to Visit: The best period is from November through April (the dry season). During the summer months, it can be very hot and humid, with a chance of heavy tropical showers.
• How much time: Take the time to explore the valley; it really is a lovely place with plenty to see and do. I would book at least two or three nights.
• Money matters: Cuba has a complex money situation. Always have plenty of cash (preferably euros) with you to exchange. There are ATMs in Vinales, but they do not always work with foreign cards.
• Internet: Don’t expect high-speed Wi-Fi. You have to buy an internet card from Etecsa and log in at a Wi-Fi hotspot (often at Parque José Martí, the central square in the village). Think of it as a great chance for a digital detox!
• Mosquitoes: Especially around dusk, mosquitoes in the valley can be quite aggressive. Bring a good spray with DEET.